Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick, concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Corona Open J-Bay. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free.

Today’s episode is with Dr. Aaron James. A Harvard PhD, professor and chair of philosophy at UC Irvine, James is a lifelong surfer and the author of the new book  “Surfing With Sartre: An Aquatic Inquiry Into A Life of Meaning”.

How does one make a living as a professional free surfer today? Alex Gray unpacks the tribulations and rewards of chasing swell around the world. Do pro surfers pay for photographers travel? Who finances the safety teams?

Whilst we watched these massive waves barreling on our tiny hand held screens around the world, the warrior wrestled his broken heart over the ledge and locked into another lifetime wave. Because bravery was backed by preparation and a spiritual yearni...

Donald Brink is a lead proponent of asymmetrical surfboard design. A designer since youth, Donald paints, makes plywood fins, and as a surfboard shaper he believes that all board designs can be enhanced with asymmetrical adjustments.

Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Corona Bali Pro-tected. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free...

Dave Prodan of the WSL weighs-in on the biggest pro surf headlines from this first half of 2018; the reasons behind the Margaret River cancellation, whether Kelly will get an injury wildcard in 2019 despite his freesurf exploits,

Santa Cruz board builder Travis Reynolds is the 2018 winner of the Icons of Foam shaping competition. In today’s episode Travis opens up about the perils of rapid growth, the value of shaping machines, exploring asymmetry,

Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Oi Rio Pro. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free.

Apple called him “a pioneer with profound impact” and Newsweek magazine said he “changed the public face of graphic design”. In 1991 David Carson redesigned Surfer Magazine and established a now iconic graphic design style seated in raw human emotion...

Greg Martz founded The Waterman’s Guild in 1983. In the past 35 years it’s become renowned as one of the world’s leading surfboard glass shops; glassing boards for everyone from Dale Velzy, to Lightning Bolt, to Channel Islands and Rusty.

Today Chas and David discuss The Year of The Snake and why Jake Patterson is the most disruptive coach in surfing, they critique current hair styles trending on the top 32, analyze potentially racist surf etymology,

Introducing the 5 minute contest recap. All the important details (sans the lulls between sets) that transpired during the 2018 Margaret River Pro. Fights, sharks, and a 24-way tie. Bite sized, potent, and straight to the blood stream. Enjoy!

Roger Hinds’ 40 year mantra, “Built by One Pair of Hands” was challenged last week when his glass shop closed.  In today’s episode we discuss the new economics of board building, why some surfboard brands have outsourced manufacturing,

Introducing the 5 minute contest recap. Today we’ll bring you all the important details (sans the lulls between sets) that transpired during the 2018 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach. Bite sized, potent, and straight to the blood stream. Enjoy!

Today’s conversation is with San Diego surfboard shaper Josh Hall. Josh discusses starting his career at the very bottom (ding repair), studying Spanish literature, detouring through Europe to import wine, surviving situational depression,

Today’s episode is with 4-time kneeboard world champion and WSL commentator Gigs Cellier.  Gigs shares stories from his life in South Africa, witnessing Tom Curren’s famous first wave at JBay, participating in Jordy’s ascent to greatness,

In today’s episode we catch up with surfboard shaper Josh Martin. Josh is carrying on a family legacy of shaping, started by his father Terry Martin and uncle Mickey Munoz. Terry is credited as having shaped more surfboards than any other human (estima...

In today’s episode, David is in the hot seat. Tyler Breuer from Swell Season was visiting from NYC and took the lead position to interview David about his origin story, his relationships with Scott Bass and Chas Smith,

Dave Prodan is the SVP of Global Brand Identity for the World Surf League. He’s been with the organization since 2005 and has evolved through various roles and has helped shape the WSL as we experience it today. On today’s show,

In today’s salacious episode of The Grit!, Chas and David discuss Ashton’s police report and the fallout involved with sending a Sheriff to the Surfrider Foundation’s offices, backroom deals on the North Shore and its relation to police corruption in H...

Today’s episode is with master laminator Alex “Superwolf” Villalobos. Superwolf laminates for Ryan Burch, Joel Tudor, Jeff McCallum, and is well renowned as one of surfing’s finest laminators and resin colorists.

In today’s episode of The Grit! Chas and David reflect on #DebateGate and ponder the fallacy of bad publicity. They also discuss their experiences at Surf Ranch, analyze the WSL’s $30 million dollar Facebook partnership and their withdrawal from Hawai’...

Well, the secret is out. On November 21st, 2017 I surfed Kelly’s Surf Ranch with 14 friends and members of surf media. In today’s episode I recap the day with two of the attendees, writers Jamie Brisick and Matt Warshaw.