On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we explore surfing in the time of the Hawaiian Renaissance of the late 60’s and 70s. Lopez, BK, Bertleman, Buttons, Reno, Sunn, are just a few names that represented a new paradigm in surfing. The Hawaiians were no longer taking a backseat to their mainland brethren. They were leading the charge of performance surfing while Hawaiians of all walks of life were experiencing a rediscovery of their culture after decades of suppression from colonialists. These two things didn’t just randomly coincide. The movement had a lasting impact and surfing would forever be changed. Plus, listen one Breuer Bro receives a historical pounding with another round of Stump my bro! All on this episode of Hardcore Surf History.
90 min
2
044 - I heard there is no surf in NJ with Danny...
99 min
3
043 - The Curren Whisperer with Jimmy Metyko
174 min
4
042 - At First Sight
The great Phil Edwards once said something along the lines of, ‘My first wave was the best ride of my life. Everything after was downhill.’ Whether that was true or not, the point made was the first taste of surfing often leads to obsession that sticks for life. And like any addiction, the stories of how we get hooked are as varied as the addicts themselves. From Hollywood Films to cool older brothers, inspiration takes on many forms. Each of our odysseys have their own origin stories which colour our image of what surfing is and in turn, help shape the culture itself. And like Edwards’ downhill allusion, each career has their own trajectory. This may be me just trying to be clever, but I’m going to end this intro with question, is the way our wave ends in any way decided by the way it began? In this episode, we ask how and why we started to surf? We explore various on ramps and off ramps to a surfing life. Was it luck? Peer Pressure? Or some mysterious force that has driven us to our destiny of a salty life? Plus, another round of Stump my bro! All on this episode of Hardcore Surf History.
98 min
5
041 - Only One MP with Simon ‘Shagga’ Saffigna ...
In this special episode we discuss the lasting impact of his iconic turn at Kira in 1971 and the 'MP Classic Cutback Competition’. The episode features in-depth discussions with Simon ‘Shagga’ Saffigna and Daniel Carmichael about Peterson's legacy, the competition's origins, entry details, judging criteria, and its impact on the surfing community.
52 min
6
040 - Shoulda Been Here Yesterday
On this episode, Was surfing really better way back when? We explore the pros and cons of being a surfer today. We ask, Is our perception of the past a cognitive bias? Or was it really that much better? And did waves pump that much harder. Plus, Jamie and Tyler see how their past experiences stack up against each other with another round of Stump my Bro.
116 min
7
039 - Matt George
On this episode of Hardcore Surf History Bonus Section, Tyler goes full on surf nerd with the legendary Matt George. They discuss his new book 'In Deep' and get the real story behind behind 'In Gods Hands', his win at the Mr. Hot Buns Competition at the Allentown Wave Pool competition and reflect on how the media landscape has changed. This is a not to be missed episode!
137 min
8
038 - What Is Style?
On this episode, we tackle the essential question: What is Style and why does it matter? We ask What makes a surfer stylish? Where did we get our notions of style from? Who has it? Who doesn’t? and Why does it mean so much to us? We wade our way into the fraught and subjective topic on a matter of style. And of course… The Breuer Brothers try to out-vogue each other with Stump My Bro.
109 min
9
037 - Image Is Everything
On today's episode we look in the mirror and take a long, hard, sobering look at the image of surfing. How important is surfing’s image? Does it shape surfing’s culture? Does it affect who takes up the sport? Does it impact on the actual experience itself? Do these questions even matter? Then after we stare long enough at ourselves, Jamie and Tyler have a staring contest and try to Stump My Bro.
102 min
10
036 - Curren vs Occy: 101
At This year's Rip Curl Bells Beach Easter Classic’s 60th Anniversary, Tom Curren and Mark Occhilupo–two of surfing's most influential characters and rivals–competed in a special Heritage Heat. The Curren/Occy Rivalry is stuff of legends. Many middle aged men get weak in the knees just mentioning the two. But.. Why? Why do we care so much about this rivalry? What is its importance to pro surfing? Who are these two surfers that captured our imaginations and have inspired generations of surfers? We dive in and give context to surf history.
44 min
11
035 - Houses of the Holy: The Surf Shop
On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we dive into our Houses of the Holy: The Surf Shop. What have they meant to surfers over the years? How have they shaped surf culture? The history of surf retail and how they have evolved over time. Plus another round of “Stump my Bro.”
94 min
12
034 - Stories by The Fire: Craig Peterson
For over ten years, spanning the 70’s decade and into the 80’s, the global misadventures of Kevin Knaughton and Craig Peterson appeared in amusing, you-are-there detail in Surfer Magazine. Their stories, authentic accounts of dirtbag travel with surfboards, inspired a generation of readers to get out there and see the world through a surfer’s eye. In this episode we talk to the Craig Peterson about his past travel exploits and the philosophy behind traveling with a surfer’s eye.
119 min
13
033 - Surf Travel
On this episode, we explore the reasons for surf travel and the many adventures and tales that have been told through the years. We discuss the pioneers and the moral questions that surf travel brings with it and when would have been the golden era of surf exploration? And… we’ve gone to the end of the earth to find a question that would Stump My Bro.
89 min
14
032 - 500 Summer Stories with Greg MacGillivray
On this episode, Tyler had the incredible opportunity to talk to the legendary filmmaker, Greg MacGillivray. Business partner Jim Freeman, MacGillivray produced a series of films from the mid-'60s to the early '70s that set the standard for technical excellence. Their final surf film Five Summer Stories was deemed as one of the greatest surf films of all time. It’s an in depth deep dive into the career and life of one of surfing’s greatest filmmakers.
104 min
15
031 - World Championships
Today's episode is all about the World Champs! Who are they and why do we care? We explore the purpose of having a world champion, the different formats to decide a title, and the figures and personalities that make up the long list of past, present and future world champions. And the Breuer Bros battle it out to see who's number one when it comes to surf trivia with the ultimate Stump My Bro.
96 min
16
030 - Adrian Kojin on Brazilian Surf History
Today we compliment our Brazil episode with a conversation with writer, adventurer, former ‘Fluir Magazine’ and ‘Brazilian Surfers Journal’ editor Adrian Kojin. We explore the vast history of Brazilian surf culture, learn about its iconic figures, key events and the great people who make up this surfing super power. Enjoy!
138 min
17
029 - A History of Brazilian Surfing
Today we dive into the colorful, rich, often overlooked history of Brazilian Surfing. From its roots as a leisure activity for the elites, to its pathway out of the favela’s for many of its celebrated surfers, we assess their current world domination in an attempt to fully appreciate the deep and vast culture of surfing in Brazil. Plus the Breuer Brothers do a little capoeira style sparring with another round of Stump My Bro. Enjoy!
83 min
18
028 - Devon Howard on the Longboard Revolution
As a supplement to our Longboard Revolution episode we interview former Longboard Magazine Editor and former WSL Longboard World Tour Commissioner, Devon Howard. We get a clear-eyed view of the Longboard Revival, its evolution, the players, and the politics. What follows is truly for the surf nerds! Enjoy!
99 min
19
027 - Longboard Revolution
On this episode we explore one of the most consequential movements in surfing, ‘The Longboard Revolution.’ From Boomers with disposable income and a taste for nostalgia, to the battle between Joel Tudor’s traditionalist style vs Joey Hawkins progressive attack, and the enduring impact on lineups around the world! We trace its rise and importance. Plus, another round of Stump My Bro.
103 min
20
026 - Interview with IPS Founding Member Patti ...
If you haven't heard of Patti Paniccia, you can be forgiven. Surf history and the magazines have all but white washed women pioneers and their contributions. Patti was not only one of the first women to compete on the pro tour, but also was a founding member and director of the IPS World tour in the mid 70's alongside Randy Rarick and Fred Hemmings. We had the incredible opportunity to help set the record straight with Patti and other women's contributions to professional surfing. Enjoy!
86 min
21
025 - Women's Pro Surf Genesis
Today we discuss the birth of women’s pro Surfing and the white wash its' history. The current boom in women’s surfing owes much to the incredible female pioneers who had to overcome incredible obstacles to lay the foundation for where we are today. We dive into this history and attempt to set the record straight. Plus the bros have a duel to the death with another round of Stump My Bro. Enjoy!
76 min
22
024 - Reluctant Messiah: Wayne Lynch Interview
For part 3 in our recent Reluctant Messiah series, Tyler has a candid conversation with the legend himself, Wayne Lynch. The topics range from the commercialization of surfing, to the inherent selfishness of being a surfer and how one reconciles it in their life. Wayne is fun, humorous and articulate. Enjoy!
72 min
23
023 - Tom Curren: Reluctant Messiah
As a supplement to the Reluctant Messiah episode, Tyler had an opportunity to interview in front of a live audience Tom Curren and Sonny Miller to discuss the legendary Search trips for Rip Curl. What follows is an incredible conversation and storytelling of one of the greatest marketing campaigns ever in surfing and establish Curren as a surfing messiah for a generation of surfers. Enjoy!
57 min
24
022 - Reluctant Messiahs: Wayne Lynch & Tom Curren
On today's episode the Breuer brothers explore reluctant messiahs Wayne Lynch and Tom Curren. Both were child prodigies who led performance revolutions in surfing, influenced our styles, attitudes and surf culture. Yet it was their reluctance to embrace their fame that has fueled their myth. We dive into each of these surfers' histories and explore their cosmic connection. And of course Jame & Tyler try to out maneuver each other with another round of Stump my bro. Enjoy!
66 min
25
021 - Alby Falzon: Morning Of The Earth
Today we chat with Alby Falzon to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Morning of the Earth, the iconic 1972 Australian surf film made by Sydney photographer & Tracks Magazine founder. The film ushered in the country-soul movement in surfing and its influence can still be seen today in many modern day surf films. Today Alby discusses his influences, the back stories and more before the Breuer's bring some holiday cheer with another round of Stump My bro. Enjoy!